Claire and Jeff's Travels: "When in Varanasi..." or "The Great Ghats-by"

On Tuesday, Claire and I arrived by train to the Indian holy city of Varanasi. Although we usually try to follow the when in Rome mantra as closely as possible, I can say without regret that we knew we would not be bathing or taking in sips of the Ganga (Ganges) river, the holiest of holy rivers in India.

You know who on the train to Varanasi. She got the top berth of three.

Varanasi is the oldest continually inhabited city on the face of the earth, and it really is something to see. The sense of being in an ancient place is palpable the moment you walk down a thin, cobble-stoned alley and are greeted by a gigantic cow between reaching your colorful hotel or home-stay. Needless to say that walking is the only way to get to the hotel, as the alleys are much to small to pass any other way!

Along Varanasi's ghats on the river Ganges

In fact, the Ganges is the highlight of the city, and more importantly the monumental ghats, or giant groupings of stone stairs that line the bank of the river. In Hindu religion, Varanasi near the Ganges is the holiest place someone can die. Death here virtually guarantees release from the cycle of reincarnation (death and rebirth). This final release is known as Moksha. Varanasi is a place of pilgrimage for Hindus of all denominations and is one of the seven holiest places in India.

One thing that was of great concern to me before we arrived are the renowned levels of pollution in the river. I can say from our experience that I am able to walk near it, appreciating its significance without being overrun by nasty odors, and that is a relief! It was something both Claire and I were a little worried about. Even with the conditions, it is something to see people bathing in the river, and act that absolves someone of the Hindu faith of their sins. Laundry is also done at the ghats and the clothes and linens are then dried upon the enormous stairs.